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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the family totally astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.